The Cuban capital is rewriting its script. The hotel scene here was once pretty dour, but that’s all changing. Every month, it seems, an unstoppable entrepreneur takes a dusty, decrepit spot with aristocratic bones and pours love, sweat and money into creating boutique beauties with unstoppable allure. After exploring the capital’s sun-splashed Spanish roots, from churches to palaces and plazas, and its more modern neighbourhoods where tree-shaded villas house restaurants, theatres, cafés and art spaces, visitors can retreat to these restful spots for warm Caribbean hospitality and some of the best food in the city. Bookmark these places to stay where the staff and their can-do attitude will smooth your entry into the city. Whether you’re looking for cool design, rooftop pools and terraces, or top-notch service Cuba’s capital will deliver — and often at affordable prices too